Gaming PC builder Guide for cheap gaming PC/desktop


 Why Build Your Own Gaming PC?

It might seem daunting to build my own PC, but the truth is it's actually quite easy. It only requires buying parts, installing them into the right slots, and hooking them up with cables. It's almost like Lego, but a bit more fiddly, and you'll need a screwdriver for some parts.

 Here are three good reasons for building your own Gaming PC.

 
It Costs Less:-
 
To test this theory out, I compare the price of a high- end gaming PC from a well-known brand with good quality equivalent parts with the same specifications from popular sites where you can buy parts like Newegg and Amazon. The high-end brand-name PC retails at $3,055. Meanwhile, the total for the parts I found on Newegg and Amazon were in the $1,600 range. In other words, you can simply build the PC you want with all the same parts as the brand-name PC but it'll cost half as much yet perform just as well.
 

You Can Pick Exactly Which Parts You Want:-

 
As I was looking through different options for brand-name PCs you can buy, I noticed there weren't actually that many to choose from. You're limited by what the company offers, basically. By picking the parts yourself you also know exactly what you're getting, and you're paying for as much as you need. Not more, not less. For brand-name PCs, it's not quite clear what parts companies use, so you're never really sure whether you're overpaying for something you don't need, or if you're getting parts that don't do what you want.
 
It's Extremely Satisfying:-
 
It is extremely satisfying to put hand-picked parts together and run the Windows operating system, as well as apps and games. You can look at your final product and say "I made that," not some companies like Samsung, Acer, or HP. Now you know why you should build your own PC! Let's head to the next chapter where you'll learn where to buy the parts required to make the PC.
 

Buying The Parts:-

 Here are the components you’ll need to build your first gaming PC.
 
 
Processor: -




Your central processing unit, or CPU, is often referred to as the computer’s brain. It controls the number of tasks your computer can accomplish at once and how quickly it can complete said tasks.
 
While there are a lot of specs you can use to compare central processing units, for your first build it’s OK to find one that’s a little cheaper but gets the job done. Ask friends who have a gaming PC. what processors they have and how they like them. Research their recommendations and pick the one that seems best for you. My recommendation is Intel i3 or Ryzen 3.

Motherboard:-




The motherboard houses the various components of your gaming PC. Like a flesh-and-blood mother, it takes the disparate pieces, sits them down in their proper places, and helps them behave well together. Take some time to think ahead about the other members of your PC family—like the video card, memory, and other components you want to use—to choose a motherboard that accommodates them.
 

Memory- 




While many of us struggle to think of what we ate for lunch yesterday (fish tacos, maybe?), computers equipped with the right memory sticks have rock- solid short-term memories. Random-access memory, or RAM, allows computers to access files quickly and run multiple processes at once without lagging.
 
You’ll want at least 4GB of RAM for your computer. Anything less than that and many games won’t run. As an upper limit, most online enthusiasts agree that 16GB of RAM is more than enough for your gaming needs.
 
Check out the motherboard’s specs to determine how many RAM sticks you need and what speeds and types are available.

Graphics processing unit:-



The graphics processing unit, also known as the GPU, graphics card, or video card, is a pretty flashy component. Not only does it look cool, but it makes your games appear photorealistic without crashing your computer or slowing your gameplay.
 
Some sites stress-test graphics cards and publish reviews pointing out flaws in aesthetics and execution. Reading these is a great way to figure out what card to buy.
 

Storage:-




It can be tricky to know exactly how much storage you’ll need. Make your best-informed guess. Look at how much space your current list of games requires and use this number as a benchmark.
 
Then there’s another choice you have to make. You can buy either a hard drive or a solid-state drive (SSD). Some sources recommend combining a lower- end SSD with a hard drive for the best of both worlds. But if you can cover your storage needs with an SSD alone, it may be helpful to go this route, as these drives can halve loading times, no problem.
 
If this sounds overwhelming, don’t worry. It’s
possible to add storage to your PC in the future.
 

Power supply:-



You’re going to need to harness the power of electricity to bring your PC to life. This is where a quality power supply unit, or PSU, comes into play.
 
Avoid settling for the cheapest PSU to plug into your new machine. If you buy nice components, but penny-pinch for your power supply, you may find that you’ve literally torched your investment.

Case(CPU Cabinet):-



The computer case is where everything comes together. Like a good power source, a nice case can last you multiple rebuilds over many years.
 
To invest in your “forever” case, look for one that’s made of metal rather than plastic, with plenty of space on the inside to keep your current components ventilated while leaving room for future replacement parts.
 
And, of course, always check the reviews. It can be tricky to tell from an online photo how well a piece will perform when you have it under your desk.
 
Now that you know which parts to buy let's start building your PC in the next chapter.
 

Assembling Your PC

  
Your build may differ slightly, but most of the steps below are universal and will look and function very similarly.
 
Install the CPU-
 
Parts used: Motherboard, CPU
 
Remove your motherboard from its anti-static sleeve and place it on a clean, flat surface, where you'll be doing your build. Remove the protective plastic covering over the CPU socket on the motherboard by pushing the lever arm down and to the side, then pulling the covering up. Now you’re ready to install the processor.
 
Open your CPU box and take the processor out. It’s probably safely housed in a plastic sleeve. Look at the CPU, and match the arrow on the bottom-left corner of the chip with the bottom corner of the socket. There are also two notches on the top half of the chip. The pins face down, so the plain silver side should be facing up. There’s only one possible way to correctly orient the CPU, which makes it easy to install! The CPU fits into the socket, and you don't need to press down to force it into place. It doesn't "snap" in—it just rests on top of the pins. To finish the installation, simply lower the socket covering and push the lever arm back into place.
 

Install the CPU cooler:-

 
Parts used: motherboard (with installed CPU), CPU
cooler, thermal paste
 
Ready for what is (usually) the hardest step of your build process? Everything from here on is a total breeze, but installing a CPU cooler can be a bit tricky, especially because they vary in design. For this step, you should primarily be following the steps shown in your CPU cooler’s included instructions. But I’ll walk you through two examples: installing the stock Intel cooler included with Intel’s processors, and installing the popular Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo, my recommended air cooler.
 
Stock Intel cooler: This little guy will keep an Intel processor cool enough if you’re not doing any overclocking, but it’s not as quiet or efficient as an aftermarket cooler. Its greatest strength, however, is simplicity. If you look at the bottom of the cooler, you’ll notice it already has thermal material on it. This means you don’t need to add the thermal paste to your CPU. Intel’s cooler is also easy to mount. Simply place it over the CPU socket, oriented so that its labeling faces the same direction as the text on the processor. The frame of the socket is the top, while the lever arm juts down to the bottom. Push the cooler’s pegs into the four holes surrounding the CPU socket until they click into place.
 
Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo: This cooler takes a bit more work. First, find the CPU mounting plate (aka backplate). You need to install this plate to the backside of the motherboard to provide extra support for the cooler. Refer to the instructions to find the proper screws and backplate positioning for your motherboards, since the mounting positioning can vary slightly between sockets. But lining it up should be easy—there are four holes around the edges of the CPU socket, and that’s where you’ll be placing screws to attach to the backplate on the backside of the motherboard. Hold the backplate in position so its mounting holes line up with the holes around the socket, then screw it into place from the top side.
 
With the backplate securely in place, you’re ready to install the cooler. Unclip the fan from the radiator to make it easier to install. Now flip the radiator over so that the small side, with copper piping, is facing up. There should be a clear plastic covering on this surface to keep it clean.
 
Remove the plastic and apply a pea-size dab of thermal paste to the middle of the surface (I did a sloppy job in the video above: you can use about half that much thermal paste). You don’t need a lot, and you don’t need to spread it around—pressing
the cooler onto the CPU will do that for you.
 
Ready to put it in place? Orient the cooler vertically over the CPU socket (the socket is taller than it is wide, so you should orient the cooler to match) and press it down firmly on the CPU. Make sure it’s on straight.
 
Homestretch: look at the CPU mounting bracket, a crossbar with spring-loaded screws on the ends. Reference the instructions to make sure those screws are positioned properly for your motherboard socket. Then, with the bracket closed, slip it in the gap between the radiator and the contact point of the cooler. There’s a little peg hole here that the center of the bracket nestles into. Push it into place, then spread the two arms out and position the screws into place over the four mounting screws you installed earlier. Screw them in, and you should feel the cooler tighten up against the motherboard until it’s held solidly in place. Reattach the fan to the heatsink simply by clipping it into place. You’ve now installed your CPU cooler.
 

Slot in the RAM:-

 
Parts used: motherboard (with CPU and cooler), RAM
 
This step is easy. So easy. Take your RAM sticks (you probably have two or four) out of their packaging. Before installing, refer to your motherboard manual’s page about the RAM slots. This page will tell you which RAM slots are the ideal slots to use based on how many sticks you have. These slots are usually color-coordinated.
 
Once you know where you’re putting the RAM, unlock the slot by pushing down on the hinged tabs on one end. Orient your RAM so that the notch of the way through the stick matches with the notch on the slot. Now press the RAM sticks firmly into the slots. Don’t worry about pressing too hard—it takes some pressure. The tabs will click into place when the sticks are fully inserted.
 

Snap the I/O shield into place:-

 
Parts used (PC case, motherboard I/O shield)

Time to open up that shiny new PC case you bought. Opening it is as simple as undoing the thumbscrews at the back of the case that holds the panels in place and then removing them. Now lay the case flat on your table so that the main cavity faces up.
 
Your motherboard should’ve come with a rectangular plastic or metal I/O shield that fits over the motherboard’s input/output ports. To install the I/O shield into the case, the first orient it correctly about the motherboard, then fit it into the rectangular slot at the back of the PC case. You’ll have to press it firmly into the slot from within the case; they can be finicky to install, and the edges are sharp, so watch your fingers. Press against each side of the I/O shield until it gives you a solid snap.
 

Install the motherboard standoffs in the PC case and screw in the motherboard:-

 
Parts used: PC case, PC case standoffs, and screws, motherboard
 
Your case should’ve come with a box or bag full of screws, zip-ties, and other odds and ends you’ll use for installation. Find the motherboard standoffs— the bottom halves of the standoffs are threaded, while the top halves are screw holes that you’ll be screwing the motherboard into. Now examine your case. There should be about a dozen small holes around the inside of the case where the standoffs go. Depending on your case, they may be labeled for different size motherboards: A for ATX, M for micro ATX, and I for mini ITX. Depending on the size of your motherboard (in most cases, you’ll be building with a standard ATX size), you want to put the standoffs into the correctly labeled holes. If they’re not labeled, you should have enough standoffs to simply cover every hole. Screw them into place using the included standoff tool, which fits over the standoff and lets you use a screwdriver.
 
With the standoffs in place, it’s time to screw in the motherboard. Orient it so that the I/O ports line up properly with the I/O shield, then lower the motherboard until it’s resting on the standoffs. Most cases have a peg that fits up through a hole in the center of the motherboard, so if you have it properly positioned, it should now be locked into place. Once the motherboard’s place, find the motherboard screws that came with your case and tighten that mother down.

Install the power supply:-

 
Parts used: Power supply, PC case

Another easy step. Take your power supply out of its
box and set aside all the cables, which you’ll be
using a bit later. Depending on the model, the power supply may be completely modular (in which case, no cables are permanently attached) or partially modular (primary motherboard power cables are hardwired in) or not at all modular (a whole big mess of permanently attached cables). Regardless, this step of the installation process is the same: you’re going to put the PSU into the case, usually at the bottom, so that the rear vent and power plug and on/off switch face out of the rear of the case.
 
Depending on your case, you may have the option to orient, the power supply face up or face down. See the big fan on top of your power supply? If your case has a vent at the bottom, you can orient that fan down to pull in cool air from below the case. But don’t orient the PSU downwards if your PC will be resting on the carpet. The fan needs clear airflow. If your case doesn’t have that ventilation at the bottom, simply orient the power supply so that the fan faces up, into the case.
 
With the power supply nestled against the back of the case, find the power supply screws that came with your case and screw it in tight. You’ll probably need to push against the power supply from inside
the case to make sure it’s snug.
 
Insert hard drives and/or SSDs-
 
Parts used: PC case, HDD, SSD
 
This step will vary a bit based on your case and what kind of storage you’re putting into your PC. A pretty standard configuration these days is an SSD for your Windows installation and games, and an HDD for bulk storage of media.
 
In a typical case, there are convenient hard drive trays that slide in and out, or plastic runners that snap onto the sides of the HDD. If it’s a tray, it probably mounts onto the bottom of the hard drive. Orient your HDD in the tray so that its ports face out of the back of the tray. This will allow you to run cables to it on the backside of the case, and keep the interior cavity nice and clear. Now find the HDD screws included with your PC case parts and screw the HDD to the tray. Then simply slide the tray back into its slot, where it should fit with a nice click. Runners are even easier: just snap them to the sides of the HDD and then slot it into an empty space in the hard drive cage.
 

SSD mounting methods vary: some cases now have dedicated 2.5-inch SSD slots, while others use adapter trays to fit the SSD into the same part of the case as the HDDs. If it’s a tray, the installation will be similar to a hard drive. Refer to your case’s manual to figure out how your SSD should be mounted.


Plugin hard drives and/or SSDs:-

 
Parts used: PC case, SATA cables, power cables, HDD, SSD
 
Once you have all your drives installed, it’s time to plug ‘em in. Find the SATA data cables included with your motherboard, and plug those into the small SATA ports on the drives. The SATA port is notched, so the cable can only fit in one way.
 
After the SATA data cable comes to the SATA power cable. These cables may already be attached to your power supply—there are usually plugs attached to a single cable, and you should have several extras included with the power supply. If your HDD and
SSD is installed close together, you should only need one cable to power them both. Find the cable where it’s connected to the power supply, pull it through one of the cable management openings along the wall of the case, and plugin both the SSD and HDD. Like the SATA data cables, these are notched, and can only plug in one way.

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